COFFEE BAY / HOLE IN THE WALL“Numerous people have attempted to climb the
‘wall’
containing the hole. It is possible, but proves no easy
exercise. A Bomvana tribesman who watched a party of
experienced European mountaineers reach the summit tried
his hand the next day. He climbed to the top, but when he
had to get down again he lost his nerve and sat
plaintively hollering for help for the next three days
until news of this plight reached a camping party whose
members, fortunately for him, could climb.” (TV
Bulpin,
Discovering Southern Africa, 1986). | |
That anonymous Bomvana tribesman was not the first person
to be ensnared by the fabled Hole in the Wall near Coffee
Bay. It is a vast landmark – a cliff that looms out
of
the sea with a huge tunnel scored neatly through the
middle by wave action. The sullen crashing roar of the
sea through the hole has given this famous natural feature
the Xhosa name esiKhaleni (the place of sound). It is an
easy 1km walk from the nearby village which is dominated
by two accommodation establishments. The beach at Hole in
the Wall is good for swimming, fishing and snorkelling and
the hotel offers free surfing lessons. There is a new
road (and a brisk 8-km hike along the beach) to the nearby
resort of Coffee Bay. | |
There is no trace of the wrecked ship with its cargo of
coffee beans that gave Coffee Bay its name, but there are
plenty of other attractions for visitors. Coffee Bay has
the delightful ambience of a tropical ski village, with
rustic hotels, lodges, bars and open-air lounges all
within walking distance of each other, and each trying to
out-picturesque its neighbour. Dress code is strictly
beachcomber-style, and most meals are eaten outdoors.
This is one of the most popular holiday resorts on the
Wild Coast, with safe and beautiful swimming beaches,
spectacular hikes, excellent fishing and a transient
population of families on holiday, backpackers, campers,
tourists and students. | |
This is the only other coastal resort apart from Port St
Johns that has a tarred road all the way, making for a
pleasant rolling journey from Jojweni or Viedgesville on
the N2. The countryside here is quite different to the
gentle hills to the south – it is more rugged, and
with glimpses of the grandeur of high cliffs. A
distinctive feature is the local thatched round huts,
each with a 'topknot' fashioned out of a car-tyre,
coloured bottles or even an aloe plant. This gives each
dwelling a rather surprised expression, but has a strictly
practical purpose – it is said to prevent owls
(regarded by the locals as creatures of ill-omen) from
roosting on the roofs.
To get there, travel southwards along the N2 from Umtata
up to Jojweni or Viedgesville. Then turn left and take
the road towards Mqanduli and Coffee Bay. | |
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